Introduction

The range hood is one of the most underappreciated appliances in the kitchen. It sits above the hob, runs quietly in the background, and most of the time nobody thinks about it — until it stops working well. Then you notice: the kitchen fills with steam, cooking smells linger for hours, and grease slowly builds up on cabinet surfaces and walls.

Choosing the right range hood isn't complicated, but it does require understanding a few key concepts that most product descriptions gloss over. Once you know how hoods actually work and what the numbers on the spec sheet mean, the decision becomes much more straightforward.

The Two Types of Range Hood: Extraction vs. Recirculation

Every range hood works in one of two fundamental ways, and this distinction matters more than almost any other specification.

Extraction (ducted) hoods

An extraction hood pulls air from above the hob, passes it through a grease filter, and then expels it outside through a duct that runs through the wall or ceiling. The grease stays in the filter; the air — along with odours, steam, and combustion by-products — exits the building entirely.

This is the most effective way to keep kitchen air clean. Extraction hoods remove smells and moisture from the room completely, rather than treating and returning the air. They're the better choice for heavy cooking, gas hobs, or anyone who wants genuinely fresh kitchen air.

The requirement: you need an external duct. In many houses and ground-floor apartments, this is straightforward to install. In upper-floor apartments or buildings with structural constraints, it may not be possible.

Recirculation (ductless) hoods

A recirculation hood draws air up through a grease filter, then passes it through an activated carbon filter that absorbs odours, and returns the cleaned air back into the kitchen. No duct is needed — the hood can be installed anywhere.

Recirculation is a practical solution when ducting isn't possible, but it has real limitations: it removes grease and reduces odours, but it doesn't remove moisture or combustion gases. Kitchen humidity still rises when you cook. Carbon filters also need to be replaced every 3 to 6 months — an ongoing cost that extraction hoods don't have.

If your kitchen setup allows for ducting, extraction is almost always the better long-term choice. If ducting isn't possible, recirculation is a reasonable and widely-used alternative.

Understanding Airflow: What the m³/h Rating Means

Airflow capacity is measured in cubic metres per hour (m³/h) — the volume of air the hood can move in one hour at maximum speed. This is the most important performance specification, and it's often misunderstood.

A common guideline used in European kitchen planning is that a range hood should be capable of replacing the kitchen's air volume at least 10 times per hour. For a typical kitchen of 20 square metres with a 2.5 metre ceiling (50 m³ of air), this means a minimum capacity of 500 m³/h.

In practice, most kitchen designers recommend choosing a hood with more capacity than the minimum calculation suggests, for two reasons: first, duct length and bends reduce real-world airflow below the rated figure; second, cooking at full capacity — multiple burners running, frying at high heat — produces more air volume than the minimum calculation accounts for.

A practical guide for European home kitchens:

• Light cooking, small kitchen (under 15 m²): 300 to 400 m³/h

• Standard household cooking, average kitchen (15–25 m²): 500 to 650 m³/h

• Frequent cooking, larger kitchen, or gas hob: 650 to 900 m³/h

• Heavy cooking, open-plan kitchen, or professional-style hob: 900 m³/h and above

For recirculation hoods, the rated airflow is less directly comparable — carbon filter resistance reduces effective airflow. Look for recirculation-specific performance data where available.

Noise Levels: The Specification Most People Ignore

Range hood noise is measured in decibels (dB) and is one of the most practically important specifications — yet it's rarely highlighted in product marketing. A hood that sounds like a jet engine at full power is one that people switch to a lower setting or avoid using altogether, which defeats the purpose.

Here's a useful reference frame for dB levels:

• Under 45 dB: Very quiet. Comfortable for normal conversation while cooking.

• 45–55 dB: Moderate. The range most household hoods fall into at medium speed. Comparable to a quiet office or a normal conversation.

• 55–65 dB: Noticeable. Comfortable for short periods, but conversation requires slightly raised voices at full speed.

• Above 65 dB: Loud. Typical of older or budget models at maximum extraction. Uncomfortable for extended cooking sessions.

Most range hoods have multiple speed settings, and the dB figure in the spec sheet usually refers to maximum speed. A hood that runs at 65 dB at maximum but 48 dB at medium speed is perfectly liveable — most everyday cooking can be handled at medium, with maximum reserved for intensive frying or grilling.

Look for hoods that specify noise levels across multiple speed settings, not just the maximum. This gives a more honest picture of what the appliance will sound like day-to-day.

Hood Styles: Which Type Fits Your Kitchen?

Under-cabinet hoods

The most common type in European kitchens. Mounted beneath a wall cabinet directly above the hob, these hoods are space-efficient and relatively affordable. They work well in standard kitchen layouts where wall cabinets are already present above the cooking area. Most can be configured for either extraction or recirculation.

Chimney (wall-mounted) hoods

Mounted directly on the wall above the hob, extending up to the ceiling, these hoods make a strong visual statement and are the dominant style in modern open kitchens without upper cabinets. They tend to have higher airflow capacity than under-cabinet models and are almost always ducted for extraction.

Island hoods

Designed for kitchen islands or peninsulas where the hob is not against a wall. Island hoods hang from the ceiling, require ceiling-mounted ducting, and are typically the largest and most powerful domestic hood category. They're also the most expensive and most visible — in open-plan kitchens, they often serve as a design feature as much as a functional appliance.

Integrated and slimline hoods

Integrated hoods are concealed within cabinetry, with only the extraction opening visible. Slimline hoods have a lower profile than standard under-cabinet models — useful when there's limited clearance between the hob and the cabinet above. Both types tend to have lower airflow capacity than full-size models, so they suit lighter cooking use.

Installation: Key Considerations

A few practical points that often get overlooked when planning a range hood installation:

• Clearance height: The recommended distance between a gas hob and the bottom of the hood is typically 65 to 75 cm. For electric and induction hobs, 45 to 60 cm is standard. Always check the manufacturer's specifications for your specific model.

• Hood width: The hood should be at least as wide as the hob, and ideally 10 to 15 cm wider on each side to capture the full cooking area. A hood that's narrower than the hob will miss vapour and smoke from the outer burners.

• Duct diameter: Wider ducts allow higher airflow with less resistance and less noise. If you're having ducting installed, use the largest diameter your hood supports — typically 150 mm or 200 mm for residential models.

• Duct route: Every bend in a duct reduces effective airflow. A straight run is ideal; if bends are unavoidable, use smooth-radius bends rather than sharp right-angle elbows.

Explore IsEasy Range Hoods

IsEasy range hoods are designed for the European home kitchen — combining effective extraction with quiet operation and clean aesthetics that complement modern cabinetry. Available in under-cabinet and chimney configurations, with both ducted and recirculation options. Explore our range hood collection to find the right model for your kitchen.